Laminate Flooring Calculator
Works out laminate packs for a room, with the underlay and the beading that covers the expansion gap.
Whole packs, rounded up.
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The formula
packs = ceiling(area × (1 + waste) ÷ pack coverage)
The rounding is the whole point. Flooring only comes in whole packs, so a room needing 20.1 m² of a 2.2 m² pack buys 10 packs and 1.9 m² of spare — which is why the waste percentage matters less than people think on a small room and more on a large one.
What to watch out for
Waste depends almost entirely on how it is laid:
- Straight, square room: 5%. Offcuts from one row start the next.
- Diagonal: 10–15%. Every board at the perimeter is an angled cut.
- Herringbone or chevron: 15–20%. Almost nothing can be reused.
- Awkward room — bays, alcoves, lots of doorways: add 5% to any of the above.
Floating floors must not touch anything. Leave a 10–12 mm expansion gap at every wall, pipe and threshold, covered by the skirting or beading. A floor fitted tight to the walls has nowhere to go when it takes up moisture, and it lifts in the middle — the single most common failure in a DIY laminate floor.
Acclimatise the boards. Leave the unopened packs flat in the room for 48 hours so they reach its temperature and humidity before you cut anything.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much laminate do I need for a 5 × 4 m room?
20 m² plus 10% waste is 22 m², so 10 packs at 2.22 m² each. Add the same area again in underlay, and about 20 m of beading.
What expansion gap does laminate need?
10–12 mm at every wall, pipe and doorway, hidden by the skirting or beading. Without it the floor has nowhere to expand and lifts in the middle.
Do I need underlay under laminate?
Yes, unless the boards have it pre-attached. It evens out small subfloor irregularities, cuts impact noise and — on a concrete subfloor — carries the damp-proof membrane.